The Baukjen Innovation Lab
Innovation is at the heart of our mission to lead fashion into a more sustainable future. The Baukjen Innovation Lab is our dedicated space to share the stories behind some of our projects—both the triumphs that inspire us and the setbacks that guide us forward. Sustainability demands creativity, courage, and a willingness to explore uncharted territory. For every breakthrough, there are challenges and lessons learned, and we believe in full transparency of both. Here, you’ll discover how we’re rethinking materials, pioneering circular systems, and collaborating with innovators to redefine what’s possible in fashion. Join us on this journey of discovery, where every success and failure bring us closer to a sustainable, balanced fashion future.
We cannot reach a sustainable future alone. If any of the below projects inspire you, or you have a future project we could collaborate with, lets connect at: abetterfuture@houseofbaukjen.com
Material, Fabric & Dye
EcoPonte
Ponte Jersey is constructed with a double-knit for beautifully thick and stretchy finish, making it a core Baukjen fabric. Unfortunately, this production results in high water, chemical and energy use. We sought out available solutions with our partner factories and mills, but nothing was impactful enough for us to be satisfied. We had to be the change, so we developed the new and improved Ponte with one of our key mills in Portugal.
Coined as EcoPonte, this innovation uses a blend of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose branded fibres, recycled polyamide and a small quantity of elastane to boost the stretch and performance. Our development work changed the composition percentages and fibre choices, using recycled instead of virgin polyamide. These changes have equated to an approximate 41% reduction of carbon emissions (kgCO2e) and 42% reduction in energy (MJ) (data taken from Worldly’s Higg MSI)
Glitter and Sequin Alternatives
In 2019 we removed sequins and glitter from our collection. Whilst we loved the sparkle, they use virgin plastic and easily loosen from fabric over time, becoming microplastics and harming ecosystems – the decision to stop using them was easy. Since then, we have been on the hunt to find the best alternatives.
We worked with researchers at Cambridge University who developed a biodegradable and vegan cellulose-based glitter (you can read about it here: https://www.cam.ac.uk/stories/glitter). We spent time conducting research and tests for how the glitter could work in in our collection, but found they weren’t the right solution for us.
In 2024, we released our dazzling Party collection in Autumn/Winter featuring sequined garments made with 100% Recycled PET (polyethylene terephthalate). Care and consideration went into the production process to ensure high performance and security of sequins, reducing risk of microplastic release. While we’re proud to have lessened our impact, we’re always looking for a better solution. If you know or are the answer, please reach out to us.
Dyeing for Change
Dyeing is one of the most environmentally intensive stages in the textile supply chain, responsible for nearly 30% of our garments' environmental impact. Conventional processes consume vast amounts of water, generate wastewater laden with harmful chemicals, and rely heavily on fossil fuels for heat, contributing significantly to carbon emissions. Recognising the urgent need for change, we explored innovative solutions, from digital printing to enzyme-based dyeing, but these needed costly machinery upgrades or failed to meet quality standards. Our search led us to a novel auxiliary technology developed by a researcher in Portugal, which stops hydrolysis during dyeing, significantly reducing water, salt, and energy use.
In collaboration with one of our most innovative manufacturers, we implemented this technology on a commercial scale in 2023, leading the industry by becoming the first brand to do so. Initial trials showed impressive results: reductions of a 60%in electricity use, 25% in water consumption, and 30% in the carbon footprint of six SS24 styles. While the technology posed challenges, such as adapting dyehouse systems and optimising variables across fibre types, our commitment to experimentation paid off. We’re now working to expand this process across all cellulosic fabrics, paving the way for meaningful change in dyeing practices and sharing our findings to inspire broader adoption within the fashion industry
Leather Alternatives.
Leather is one of the most impactful materials in fashion, with deforestation, toxic chemicals, and animal rights issues at its core. Urgent action is needed, and while we’ve explored chemical-managed tanneries, vegetable tanning, and sourcing leather within Europe, we know this isn’t enough. In 2020, we began investigating bio-based materials derived from renewable sources like fungi and agricultural by-products. These innovative materials offered the potential to drastically reduce the environmental footprint of leather, promising lower carbon emissions and a reduced reliance on toxic processes.
Despite their potential, these materials faced challenges with durability, flexibility, and scalability, making them unsuitable for complex designs or commercial integration. While prototypes showed promise, limitations in tensile strength, inconsistent quality, and high production costs meant they couldn’t meet the rigorous demands of our collections. However, the project offered invaluable insights into the complexities of replacing leather and reinforced our commitment to innovation. The search for a planet-friendly alternative continues, and we stay inspired by the progress made so far.
Circularity Technology & Solutions.
reBaukjen
The Takeback Initiative is our way of giving garments a second life. By collecting pre- and post-consumer waste, we aim to keep valuable materials in circulation and out of landfills. Customers can return their used garments to us, ensuring they are responsibly recycled or repurposed. We accept any Baukjen garments, and welcome maternity garments from any brand. The maternity sector has unique sustainability challenges due to the short usage window of maternity wear—typically just 27 weeks. In the UK alone, it is estimated that four out of five million maternity clothing items purchased each year go to waste. Our Pre-Loved Scheme addresses this issue directly, transforming not just the sustainability of our business but the entire maternity industry. By handling the resale and recycling of all maternity garments, regardless of brand, we’re providing an essential solution to the growing waste problem and giving consumers an easy, responsible way to extend the life of their clothing.
In 2019 we piloted our re-commerce model, and through continued learning and adaptation have built a program tailored to the unique challenges of this industry. Our commitment to scaling this initiative was recognised by the UK Government’s Department of Environment, which awarded us a £100k grant to expand our operations. This funding has enabled us to invest in high-capacity garment photography equipment, ozone washing technology, heat exchange dryers, mechanical action washing machines, and microfibre filters to enhance our capacity and sustainability impact.
Packaging.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation found only 14% of plastic packaging is recycled globally, while paper recycling is around 58%. In 2018, we embarked on a surprisingly challenging journey to transition from plastic packaging to a more sustainable and premium solution. Partnering with Lil Packaging, we now deliver your garments in 100% plastic-free, 100% recyclable packaging. Made predominantly from recycled materials, it is biodegradable and sourced from an FSC-certified supplier, ensuring responsible environmental and social practices. The designs on our packaging are printed with certified eco-friendly vegetable and water-based inks, that don’t release harmful chemicals into the environment whilst being made and printed.
“In October 2018, Baukjen and Isabella Oliver, became the first premium UK fashion retailers to have eradicated plastics from their packaging. It is such a big achievement and proves them as leaders in the industry, encouraging other brands to follow. They should be shouting this from the rooftops.” - FRED LILL, CO FOUNDER OF LIL PACKAGING
Plastics commonly used in e-commerce packaging—like polybags, tape, and plastic void fill—are rarely recycled due to their complexity. We wanted to offer a better option: packaging that is not only fully recyclable but also easy for you to recycle locally. Once recycled, the cardboard returns to paper mills, where it’s blended with new fibres and remade into new boxes.
Our success in creating recyclable packaging made us strive to be even better - we wanted to make our boxes 100% biodegradable. By replacing the sticky tear strip with a cardboard-based alternative, we achieved that goal. Our packaging now biodegrades in just three months, ideal for home composting (simply shred, soak, and mix with soil).
We’d love to see your unboxing moments on social media—share your thoughts using #plasticfreepackaging #baukjen. Together, we can inspire other businesses to adopt environmentally friendly solutions and lead the way toward a plastic-free future.
QR Traceability
Traceability is at the heart of creating a truly circular fashion industry. Our QR Tracking project began in 2019 and continues to aim for cradle-to-grave transparency for every garment, empowering our consumers to trace the journey of their clothes from raw materials to the end of their lifecycle. Developing this system has been a collaborative effort requiring innovative solutions. Integrating this technology into existing supply chain systems has posed significant challenges, from compatibility issues to the need for blockchain solutions to ensure data security. Since mid-2020, we’ve rolled out care labels with QR codes, but scaling the process across our supply chain posed challenges. Currently, our QR Codes sit against Organic Cotton products, with the hope to expand further into other fibres and entire collections. We recognise that improving our QR Codes is vital with Digital Product Passport legislation soon to be finalised by the EU. If you have experience in DPPs, either as a brand or as a solution, please contact us via abetterfuture@houseofbaukjen.com.
Transforming Fashion Waste.
In 2019, we partnered with a Portuguese textile recycling facility to tackle one of fashion’s greatest challenges: creating a fully circular clothing model. This collaboration focused on the mechanical recycling of textiles, transforming pre- and post-consumer waste into durable recycled yarns suitable for garment production. By contributing a variety of fabrics and sharing insights into quality requirements, we helped refine the process to meet the high standards needed for durable, premium clothing.
While the prototypes developed during this partnership didn’t yet meet the quality standards for bulk production, the project has shown promising potential. Through this initiative, we’ve proven that collaboration and innovation are key to advancing circular solutions in fashion. If you have any advances or initiatives that we should hear about, please email us abetterfuture@houseofbaukjen.com.
Managing our Supply Chain.
Supply chain management in the fashion industry has been neglected for far too long, with outdated, manual processes leading to inefficiencies and waste. The COVID-19 pandemic further highlighted these challenges, forcing teams to work remotely without face-to-face collaboration or supplier visits. This isolation exposed critical weaknesses in traditional supply chain practices, resulting in higher levels of waste in an industry already grappling with sustainability concerns.
Recognising the urgent need for change, we adopted a digital supply chain platform to transform how we work with suppliers. Unlike legacy solutions, this platform is designed specifically for the fashion industry, enabling seamless integration with our existing supply chain while catering to its unique complexities. Centralising data, improving collaboration, and streamlining processes has reduced inefficiencies and ensured the responsible use of materials.
A key benefit of this technology has been its ability to analyse supply chain behaviours using advanced algorithms, automating predefined tasks and recommending necessary actions. We have significantly improved order accuracy and reduced re-order times by approximately 43%. By optimising workflows, we can ensure the right product offerings are available at the right time, minimising waste and maximising material efficiency.
As a relatively small company with strong relationships across our supply chain, we’ve been able to use this digital tool to drive meaningful change. Beyond improving our own operations, we’ve empowered our suppliers to adopt this solution with their other clients, amplifying its impact across the industry. Through shorter supply chains, innovative design processes, and enhanced efficiency, we’re leading the way for others to follow in creating a more sustainable future for fashion.